Celles-sur-Ource is the village of grower-producers, that is, the winemaker’s village who makes their champagne themselves, with the sole product of their vines.
More than 40 producers today
And if, as early as the 16th century, the local winegrowers were already producing their own wine, a gourmet (the broker of the time) would make gentlemen who were passing by taste the still wines produced at the time. It is the 1929 crisis that will generate the development of champagne locally. After three years of very low harvests due to spring frosts (1926, 1927, 1928), the 1929 harvest was sold as three-quarters of grapes to the major champagne houses through a wine broker who will go bankrupt. The winemakers will never be paid.
So much so that they decided to make their own champagne with their grapes on the spot, such as Marcel Tassin and his brother-in-law George Carreau, already experts in vignification of rosé or white wines, which champagneise from their 1930 harvest.
Celles-sur-Ource is a family village, the current toponyms are already present in the 16th century and the know-how will be transmitted quickly so that most of the vineyard families of Celles-sur-Ource make their own champagne in the aftermath of the second war World.
It is this transmission of know-how that we use to prepare our champagnes today, whether they are blending of black and white grapes such as Brut Tradition, Pinot Noir only for the Blanc de Noir vintage, the true Pinot Blanc, a local grape variety that has become rare to give a Blanc de Blancs vintage full of finesse.
And then there is rosé champagne, of vatting, whose vinification is already a celebration.
Do not do it all alone said Marcel Tassin because it is a matter of tasting.
To get the "taste of the rosé", whether older and younger, from grandfather to grandchildren, pressers, grape harvesters, everyone is invited to taste the wine in fermentation, when reassembling, and listen to the precious advice of the most initiated. "It is necessary to sober up before tomorrow morning" says the grandfather, who had practised this method from 1922 to 1976.
Because this taste is ephemeral, it lasts between 4 and 12 hours only, the vatting and pressing will freeze the aromas obtained. And champagnisation will allow to sublimate them, when about twenty months later, the bubbles will explode them in your glass. It will then be up to all to participate in this celebration.